Some days, I’m in the mood for a quick project. This was one of those days. I had some minky backing leftover from a previous project and some large cuts of fabric I was probably never going to get around to using.
It’s like one of those cooking competitions – here’s this-and-this-and-this and you have one hour. Make a thing.
Full disclosure – I actually meant to do this the super easy way where you sew it all right-sides-together with a little gap, then turn it right-sides-out and close the gap with a top-stitch all the way around the blanket. But I was tired, and ended up actually sewing it wrong-sides-together by accident and had to devise a plan for binding.
In my house, we call deviating from the recipe “chef-ing”, as opposed to merely “cooking”. Special bragging rights if the dish turns out well.
So I chef’ed this baby quilt, and ended up liking this version better anyway!
Minky – cut to the size you want your finished blanket. (My scrap was approximately 32″ x 52″.)
Quilting cotton – cut to approximately 3″ or so larger than your minky on all sides ** after washing **
Note – because cotton shrinks and minky doesn’t, and I wasn’t planning to quilt this blanket at all, I pre-washed my cotton. (First time ever.) It really helped prevent the two layers getting all out of whack after the first finished wash, and I’m glad it did it.
These photos were shot super quickly on my phone for a last-minute Instagram tutorial, but they’ll suffice. 🙂
Sew cotton and minky wrong-sides-together using a 1/4″ seam, and be sure to pin well so the layers don’t shift! No pictures of this step, sorry!
Trim the cotton until there is 1″ extra around all sides of the minky.
Fold the cotton over once, just up to the edge of the minky. A touch from the iron helps here to set the crease.
Fold the cotton over once more, covering the raw edge of the minky and clip or pin in place. (Love my clover clips!)
When you reach a corner, keep the first and second folds going all the way to the end.
Then, fold the corner down (you can see the crease in the above picture where I folded it, then unfolded to take a quick photo).
Then another fold, this time starting the first fold along the new edge.
Then finally, the last fold makes the miter! You should now be covering the raw edge of the new side with your second fold. Pin or clip well, and carry on with the double fold!
Sew in place – I recommend using a walking foot and sewing from the back. The original 1/4″ seam plus the binding stitches make a lovely double stitch pattern on the front.
Easy peasy! If had more minky scraps I’d make a few more, they are so addicting!! And how sweet is that plaid?! It’s from Mad Plaid by Art Gallery Fabrics and it goes great with the silver Cuddle minky.
Lastly – a quick note on the binding technique. This is a quick and easy binding method, but it’s not what I recommend for quilts. Reason being – this method ends up with only a single layer of fabric over the edge of the blanket. Traditional quilt binding methods use two layers of fabric for more durability. If you’re curious about how I bind quilts, you can find a full tutorial in the Learn to Quilt series here. 🙂
This year, I challenged myself to design a large throw size quilt using only charm packs – after I got so lucky as to snag a couple of out-of-print Sweetwater charm packs, I knew it was time! And it had to be just two charm packs of print, because that’s all I had! (Like all my patterns, there are cutting instructions for using squares cut from yardage, scraps, and other precuts as well.)
I also have just wrapped up the Learn to Quilt Series, and really wanted to be able to offer a beginner friendly project as a good next step, rather than my usual quilts full of triangles. Shortly after that, My Tribe was born – a traditional Irish chain quilt with one of my very favorite shapes in the middle…squares on point! Using only two charm packs with coordinating yardage for the chain, it was the perfect project for my stashed out-of-print precuts.
I was putting the finishing touches on the pattern before it had a name – I just have to wait until something clicks. In a way, my patterns name themselves. It came to be known as My Tribe due to many events happening in my life simultaneously in 2018 – the overwhelming family support for my sister who struggles with Lyme disease and an eating disorder, my amazing husband and all he does for us and our marriage, an upcoming visit to the Midwest to see my entire family and in-laws, and my brother and his wife adding a perfect baby girl to their family of three. Like the chain in the quilt, all these connections make up my tribe. More than simply my family or my friends – they are my people, and I’m grateful for each and every one of them.
I started with a baby quilt for my new niece Laila – fitting, I think. As the newest member, she will receive the first finished My Tribe quilt! I haven’t decided if I’ll keep or gift the Sweetwater version – I’ve given many quilts away to members of my tribe. 🙂
You can find the pattern in my Etsy shop – I’d love to hear what charm packs you’ve stashed for the perfect project!
The first one I made was a throw-size using an older Sweetwater line called Feedsack. I managed to find two charm packs and juuuust enough of the black yardage to make it happen!
That’s the beauty of this pattern – it’s often not hard to score two charm packs and some coordinating yardage of out-of-print lines!
How about a baby version using some Little Miss Sunshine charm squares I had laying around – so sweet! Gifted to my youngest niece, Laila.
Below is the newest version – a minky backed baby quilt with no batting in between! I wanted to try a baby quilt without batting to see if I liked the drape and feel of less structured quilt. While the answer to that question is yes – it is delightfully lightweight, soft, and perfect for making tiny baby burritos – it was such a pain to quilt! (And as expected, the quilting is barely noticeable.)
Even though I spray basted the top and back well, quilted slowly with a walking foot, and used quilting gloves, I still struggled with some bunching. Minky has always been difficult for me to quilt with, so I’m not entirely blaming it on the lack of batting. I suspect, however, that the batting may have added a stabilizing layer – curious if any of you out there have tips or tricks to share!
Regardless, I still love this quilt – baby quilts are perfect little projects for trying something new, and I can’t wait to wrap our soon-to-be littlest tribe member up in this one.
It’s hard to believe, but this is the last week of the how-to posts for the learn to quilt series! It’s been a great motivator, and a really fun experience as I’ve had friends reach out and share their first quilts! I hope you’ve enjoyed the series, and I especially hope you’ve been kind and easy on yourself if you’re brand new to quilting. Remember – only you know where the mistakes are, and they all go away with use. 😉
This was a lucky week – for you, and for me. I had four quilts that needed binding prepared, so I was able to take lots and lots of pictures! We’ll go over trimming your quilt, binding it, and then the finishing touches and quilt care. The post is quite long, but it’s mostly photos!
I’ll go over two different binding methods – machine binding and hand binding – and you can decide what is best for you. You’ll develop your own preferences over time and may modify these instructions, but we’re going to keep it simple for now.
As far as fabric selection, I love all sorts of fabrics for binding – nothing is off limits for me. I’ve used stripes, solids, dots, florals, and designs big and small for binding. I’ve never found one I didn’t like!
First, no matter which binding method you use, you’ll cut binding strips from yardage – it’s very similar to how we cut border fabric a few weeks ago. The pattern calls for 7 strips cut at your desired width – I use 2″ strips, but when I first learned to bind I used 2.25″ strips. I use thin batting and my presser foot sews a very scant 1/4″ seam, so 2″ is perfect for me. If you’re not sure which size to use, you can cut a small piece 4-6″ long and test it by going through all the steps below using a large stitch length that’s easy to rip out.
Cut your strips, trim the selvage off the ends, and stack them up while still folded in half. Just like with borders, we are going to make a long, long strip of fabric. (Yay! Ack…)
Pick up the top layer and peel it back so it is out of the way.
Next, pick up the next two layers (they should already be right-sides-together) and sew the ends together with a 1/4″ seam.
Repeat this process until you have all the strips sewn together. (Just like in the borders, you’ll have one strip left at the end without a mate.)
Here’s where binding differs from borders – you’ll press the seams OPEN, and then press the entire strip in half length-wise: WRONG-sides-together. I prefer to start pressing in half and then press a seam when I get to one. Use your fingers and the tip of the iron to press the seam open, as opposed to the side as we have been doing.
*Note – your seams will NOT be on the diagonal – I sew my seams slightly different for machine stitching now but the way I described above is easier for beginners. Your seams will be perpendicular to the strip.
Continue folding and pressing your binding strip until the entire strip is pressed – set the whole mess aside while you trim your quilt.
Yes – this part is a pain. Yes – you should do it even if your long-arm quilter already trimmed it for you. Yes – you’ll be sorry you didn’t when you realize after putting the binding on that you have ravels and batting showing and have to rip the binding off to fix it.
Just trust me on this one.
Commandeer a large space of hard floor or a large table, and grab your rotary cutter and cutting mat. Maybe knee pads. (I hate this part.) Lay the quilt out as flat as you can and using the borders as a guide, trim your edges straight and corners square with a little scoot-and-trim, scoot-and-trim all the way around the quilt.
I prefer to start with two corners, then trim the edge between. You can trim a little off, or a lot – this is where you get to decide how much border you want on the finished quilt. I typically take ~ 0.25″ off a quilt with borders so I know it’s good and straight.
(The quilt pictured doesn’t have borders, so I trim much closer to the real edge of the fabric so I don’t lose any of the design.)
Once that little project is finished, take your quilt and the wad of binding over to your sewing machine. You could roll the binding up and place it around something cute to keep it organized as you sew it on….or you can do what I do and promptly toss it on the floor with one end in your lap.
(Don’t worry, we’re still in the universal how-to here – hand stitching vs. machine stitching comes next!)
Starting in any random part of the quilt, lay your binding down so the raw edge of the binding and raw edge of the quilt are together.
Leaving a 6″ tail, begin stitching the binding on with a 1/4″ seam – remember to backstitch at the beginning to secure it. If you quilted yourself, I find it helpful to leave the larger quilting needle on for this part. If you didn’t, your regular needle will be fine as well. Binding tends to shift, so hold it down tight with your fingers and go slowly!
If you notice the layers shifting badly, you can go ahead and allow a tiny pleat in the binding to get it back on track. Typically, a little pleat will only happen in top-most layer of the binding that is folded over in the end, so it’s not a big deal. Holding the binding down firmly with your fingers as it approaches and slides under the needle helps, and you can even pin the binding if you are having a lot of trouble.
When you approach a corner, check to see if your presser foot has a small 1/4″ tick mark in front of the needle (most do, but not all). If it doesn’t, use a ruler and pencil to measure and mark 1/4″ from the edge you’re approaching. If it does, stop stitching exactly when your corner reaches the 1/4″ mark with the needle in the down position. (Either by pushing a button or turning your hand crank.)
On my foot, the first red tick mark is exactly 1/4″ in front of the needle. You can barely see the white fabric under the pink binding, lined up with this tick mark. If I didn’t have the tick mark, I would have stopped when my needle reached my pencil line 1/4″ from the corner and have the same picture.
Leaving the needle in the down position, pivot your quilt 90 degrees. Your foot edge should now be lined up with the new quilt edge (pictured here in white).
Backstitch right off the edge of the quilt and pull it away from the needle a bit. (Don’t break the thread – but if you do, just go back and backstitch where you stopped at the corner to secure those stitches and move on.)
Fold the binding edge up, making a 45 degree angle that leads all the way to the corner.
Keeping the 45 degree fold in place, bring the strip back down on itself so the second fold is parallel with the quilt edge.
To double check the folds – if I lift my finger holding the binding down, you will see the 45 degree fold is still in place:
Holding the folds down carefully, start stitching again with a 1/4″ seam. If you cut threads, be sure to backstitch here to secure it.
Once you stitch down the strip a bit, you can double check your corner by folding it to the back – you should have a nice miter on the front side of the quilt:
A quick note on corners – they are hard! Don’t sweat it if your miters aren’t perfect – it takes some practice to get nice, neat corners. Once your quilt is done and couch-ready, not a single person is going to care two wits about what your corners look like!
Keep going all the way around the merry-go-round until you get 8″ or so from where you started and backstitch, leaving a tail and a gap in the binding.
Take your quilt to your cutting mat and overlap the tails. Measure and trim the tails so they overlap by 1/2″, roughly in the middle of the un-sewn gap.
Sew the two tails right-sides-together with a 1/4″ seam – this is somewhat tricky, but if you pinch your quilt in half you can get the tails to meet more easily.
Finally, finger press the seam open. I don’t bother with using the iron in this step and have never had a problem.
Refold the binding, lay it flat to the quilt, and finish stitching it down. (Backstitching to secure your start and stops!)
Now you get to decide – are you going to fold the binding over and machine stitch it down, or hand stitch? There are pros and cons to both – I mostly machine stitch now because the time and convenience are just too good. However, I have hand stitched many quilts and love it.
For a quilt with a white border, I machine stitch with white thread and the stitch line is barely noticeable to me after washing. I have found that machine stitching with 2″ binding strips provides me the best ratio of ease of stitching vs. visible stitch line. If you choose to machine stitch, you may develop different preferences over time.
I always machine stitch from the back – there is no right or wrong way, I’m just very picky about how the stitch line looks on the back, so that’s how I stitch so I can see it.
First, fold the binding over so the fold is in back – hiding the raw edges – and secure it. I love Clover clips (probably my favorite sewing accessory EVER – available on Amazon or at JoAnns, and I think even at Hobby Lobby) but some folks use old school hair clips, pins, glue (with a quick iron to set it), or hem tape. There’s a million ways – clips are the easiest in my opinion.
At the corners, fold the binding into a miter and either clip or pin the fold so it stays in place. Again – don’t worry if you didn’t get a perfect miter! It’s taken a lot of practice to get consistent miters in my corners.
Sometimes I’ll clip the entire quilt if it’s small, other times I’ll just clip one side at a time. I use my walking foot to sew to prevent anything from shifting on me. Just sew down the edge with whatever seam allowance you’d like (I hug the edge of the binding).
When I get to a corner, I’ll unclip and hold the miter with my fingernail…or preferably, leave a pin in place and stitch right over it – which is exactly what I did after taking this picture and reprimanding myself for knowing better when the fabric shifted.
I like to give it a little backstitch then pivot in the needle-down position and do a little back-and-forth again to secure everything in place. Keep going all the way around until you’re finished!
Here’s a close-up picture of my stitch line from the front of my unwashed quilt, and an example of the stitch line in a washed and freshly crinkled quilt. It’s barely noticeable to me, and doesn’t bother me one wit. 🙂
Don’t let anyone guilt you into feeling like you SHOULD hand stitch your binding. You do whatever you want – it’s your quilt. I do both depending on the quilt and my mood, and have decided finished is my favorite. 🙂
Get snuggled on the couch with your quilt, turn on a favorite movie, and have the following supplies within arms reach:
To knot the thread (a quilter’s knot), wrap the end of the thread around the needle four times, then use your fingernails to gently slide the wrapped thread off the end of the needle (towards the eye). Continue sliding it all the way to the end of the thread, pulling it tight 0.5″ or so from the end. You’re looking for a nice, neat little knot. This can take a little practice!
Start by folding the binding over, covering the raw edge, and place 5-6 clips spaced about 3″ apart. (I like to hold my quilt with the binding facing me, and stitch from right to left. If this feels awkward, play around with holding it different ways.)
We’ll be stitching what’s called a “blind stitch” – the thread runs in between the backing and front fabric, poking up in little “nabs” to grab the binding fabric. This stitch, with tiny little nabs, can be virtually invisible.
Insert your needle a inch-ish from your starting point, coming up in a tiny little “nab” in the binding fabric. Because careful not to stitch through all the layers – the needle should run in between the front and back fabrics. Once in a awhile I’ll get a stitch that shows on the front and it’s not a big deal.
Pull it through until your knot is resting on top of the backing fabric – now give the thread a good tug, and your knot should “pop” under the fabric. (This is called “burying” the knot.) Invisible!
If you’re having trouble getting your knot to bury, pull the thread back out (or snip it and re-knot) and simply take a stitch under the binding instead. Once you fold the binding over, you won’t see the knot.
Now insert your needle into the backing fabric right where you came up, and come up again 1/4″ or so from your last little nab.
Insert your needle into the backing fabric right where you came up again. Keep repeating this stitch. If you look carefully, you can see a row of tiny white stitches:
Once you reach the end of your thread, I like to take a double stitch over my last nab to secure it, and then tie a little knot right on top of the fabric. Insert your needle as if you’re taking another stitch, but come out 1″ or so away from the backing fabric and bury the knot. Trim the excess thread.
I often have trouble burying my knot here – if your thread snaps, it’s not a big deal. The knot is small enough you won’t notice it. You can also take a double stitch and instead of tying a knot next to the fabric, take a long stitch that comes out where you’ll fold the binding over and tie a knot there. Once you fold over the binding, it will hide the knot.
Start your next piece of thread a few stitches back so you have some overlap.
There are multiple ways to hand stitch a mitered corner. I’ll show you the way I do it, though it’s not the most invisible method. If you search the internet, you will come across other tutorials with different methods – choose what you like!
Take a double stitch right where the fabrics meet in the corner, then take your next stitch up through the middle of the corner. Take three whip stitches in a row to secure the two sides together, then on the fourth stitch come back out in the corner where you started. This method is simple, quick, and secure. If the stitches showing bother you, try other ways! No one way to do anything in quilting, that’s for sure!
Not everyone labels their quilts, but if you’d like to, I highly recommend Sweetwater’s custom iron-on labels. You can even upload our own logo! I’ve used them on many quilts, and they hold up great. I like to hand stitch around the edges to secure them and give them a nice little handmade touch.
If you’re ordering bulk labels, Custom Labels 4 U makes wonderful woven labels. They are pricey, but look professional and won’t fade with time. I love them!
Machine wash warm or cold – the first time you wash your quilt, I highly recommend using a Shout Color Catcher. Tumble dry on low.
Quilts will shrink a bit and crinkle up after washing – it’s totally normal so don’t be worried when it comes out more textured than when you put it in!
Quilts are quite durable! Just like a cotton t-shirt, they will get softer and softer with use.
Congratulations on your finished quilt!!
This tutorial series has been so much fun – I have really enjoyed teaching this quilt and sharing my passion for this hobby. After two baby quilts, a disappearing nine patch was my first large quilt and first one I made for myself. I hope others can find not only a love for quilting, but also their confidence through this quilt-along.
If you’re hooked and looking for a new project, I’ll be releasing another beginner friendly pattern within the next month or so – be sure to subscribe to the blog below or check back at the beginning of June for a new charm pack pattern! Pinterest and Instagram are also other wonderful places for inspiration – I’m a part of a large community of quilters on Instagram and it’s a constant source of joy and creativity.
I’ll end this series with my personal creative mantra, of sorts:
Much love, Rebecca
Ok, this is a big week!
You’ve pieced an ENTIRE quilt top! That’s a project all on it’s own! Now, you’ve either decided to send your top to the long-arm quilt fairies who will work their magical wonders over the next few weeks while you start a new project to feed your newfound quilty addiction, or you’ve decided to spend lots more quality time with your top and quilt it at home.
I’ll being doing both, because I’ve had my BeckyJo quilt basted since DECEMBER. That’s appalling, and I should be shamed for ignoring this beauty for so long. I decided to send my disappearing nine patch to a long-arm and use this opportunity to finish up this quilt!
WIPs. (work-in-progress) Stick with this and you’ll have them, too.
Now quilting does not have to be an exact science. The only rule is to be sure and follow your batting’s requirements for the minimum amount of quilting recommended – what I use recommends stitching at least every 8″, and I typically prefer stitching every 2-3″. After that, you have free reign! I’ll be writing this post from my personal preferences, but don’t feel boxed in by what I’ll be doing.
Last housekeeping thing – I’ll be teaching simple quilting using a walking foot. Generally, variations of straight line designs work best with a walking foot. Free motion quilting, which allows you to do all sorts of squiggles, circles, feathers and so on, is a more advanced skill that requires you to be able to drop the feed dogs on your machine – a feature not all sewing machines have.
After basting, I will take a ruler and mark my lines. Depending on the design and my mood, sometimes I’ll mark the entire quilt and other times I’ll just mark a segment and alternate marking sessions with stitching sessions. Either way, you’ll start in the middle of the quilt when you stitch, so keep that in mind if you only mark a segment at a time. (Make sure you’re using a fabric safe marker – I like the iron-off Frixion pens – you can find them on Amazon or Fat Quarter Shop.)
I chose to quilt simple, modern straight lines 1″ apart – I like the texture it gives, and it’s quick to do with a minimum amount of maneuvering. Using the quilt blocks as a rough guide, I marked the entire quilt using my quilting ruler.
Even with a walking foot and impeccable basting, some shifting is inevitable on a large quilt. To minimize the visual effect of fabrics shifting in different directions, I try to start my lines on the same side of my quilt and never turn it the other direction. If I start left-to-right, I never flip it around and quilt right-to-left, if that makes sense. You’ll have to modify that rule of thumb for your own design, but if you can avoid stitching parallel lines in opposite directions it will help prevent your fabric from showing weird shifting patterns.
Get comfy, this next part takes some time!
Starting in the middle of one side, begin your stitch in the batting and stitch all the way to the opposite site, right off the edge of the top into the batting. Snip your thread, no backstiches needed. Lift the presser foot and gently ease your quilt back to the starting line, and repeat. And repeat. And repeat.
And really – that’s it. That’s all there is to it…just stitch from edge to edge and keep going until you’re done!
In case it’s not quite that easy for you (sure wasn’t for my first quilt!) – here’s some tips and tricks that I’ve learned from my own quilting experiments…
Quilting takes a gentle hand and lots of arm muscle – you want the walking foot to do all the work of pulling the quilt layers through evenly, but you have to help it along. Use your hands to smooth down the fabric in front of the foot, but try not to stretch it. If you keep an eye on the 6 inches in front of the foot, you can gently work in any weirdness before it becomes a pinch or a tuck in the fabric.
Likewise, the walking foot can’t compete with the weight of a quilt. Be mindful of how your quilt is laying and pulling – you’ll be readjusting it’s position often to keep it feeding evenly without getting dragged down by it’s own weight. If you feel like you’re having to really push the quilt through the foot, set a TV tray next to you to help hold the weight of the quilt if needed.
It’s an arm workout, believe me!
Lastly, if you’re really struggling, a pair of quilting gloves can be a big help. I didn’t use them at first, but I’ve found they help me keep a good grip on the fabric and prevent arm fatigue. I have a pair of Machingers and really like them now!
Oh hello! I struggled with skipped stitches for the LONGEST time before I figured out what worked for me. It was so frustrating! Like everything else, it’s a bit of trial and error, but give these a try:
Tension is a tricky problem – always re-thread your machine, re-insert or even re-thread your bobbin, and clean your machine before touching your tension dial. If that doesn’t fix it, follow the instructions in your manual for adjusting tension, starting with the tension dial for top thread. I’ve ultimately had to tighten the bobbin tension on all my machines, despite the popular idea you should “never” touch your bobbin tension. Just make small adjustments one at a time, and don’t be afraid to take it into a repair shop if you’re at your wit’s end! I spent hours re-threading my machine and fiddling with the tension before finally taking it into a shop where I watched a woman simply thread it again and magically fix it, free of charge. I can’t explain it. But I was grateful.
Oh You Crafty Gal! has an amazingly detailed troubleshooting guide on tension – check it out if you’re having trouble!
Ah. It happens. I’ll give the “correct” seamless way to fix this, and the “good-enough-for-me” easy way to fix it. Do whachuwant.
If you find yourself needing to start over in an area of the quilt where you don’t want to have any back-stitching show, you can pull the threads out, knot them, bury the knot, and start over. Here’s how:
First, take your seam ripper and gently pull stitches loose until you have 1.5-2″ of thread loose. You’ll have a tail on the front and the back of the quilt. Now you’ll need to pull the bobbin thread to the top – gently tug on the top thread until you see a small loop form.
Take the seam ripper and gently pull this loop up until you have two tails on top.
Knot the tails such that the knot lays as close as possible to where the bobbin thread is coming up trough the fabric.
Find a hand-stitch needle (That cheap repair kit you probably have sitting in a drawer somewhere? You’re mom’s old cookie tin full of old thread?) and thread both tails through the eye. Insert the needle as close to the bobbin thread hole as possible and bring it back up 0.5-1″ away.
Tug the thread tails until the knot pops beneath the fabric surface – now it’s buried! Your stitches will look seamless.
To start a new line right where you left off, pull a good 2″ of thread tails out from your machine. Use your hand crank or button, drop your needle down and pull it back – you just want one stitch! Just like you did earlier, tug on the top thread until a loop forms.
Pull the bobbin thread tail up, and now you can keep stitching! You’ll go back and knot/bury the thread tails after you finish stitching to the edge.
Once it’s buried, you’ll have a near seamless line of stitches, depending on how well you got your needle lined up.
Now, most of the time, I don’t care if I have some back-stitches showing. If you’re thread breaks or bobbin thread runs out and you’re feeling lazy, simply start an inch back or so over your existing stitches, back-stitch a few times to secure it all, and keep on trucking. Easy peasy. Here’s a highly contrasted side-by-side comparison:
I’ve learned something new with each quilt I’ve stitched at home – don’t be too hard on yourself if you have some goof ups! You’ll never notice 99% of the “mistakes” you think you made after the quilt gets washed and some TV time.
So take the next two weeks to cozy up with your project and a good playlist! As always, feel free to reach out with any questions and I’ll do my best to help you out. This is a big step, but after this….folks after this you’re almost done!
PS – Someday I will go back and take nicer pictures for all these tutorials…thank you for tolerating the un-edited versions for now. 🙂
First of all – I am terrible at keeping secrets that I’m excited about. The worst. My husband has received his birthday gift early every. single. year. – because as soon as I have ZERO ability to wait until his actual birthday. This was the hardest secret to keep, and I’m incredibly happy to finally let the cat out of the bag!
When Katarina Roccella put out a call for projects using her newest line of fabrics called “Mediterraneo”, I immediately jumped into an hours-long design bender. I had been to the Mediterranean years ago, and wanted to capture a bit of the geometric style and artistic tile found throughout the area yet have a design that allowed the fabrics to really shine through large, uncut areas.
I’ve also challenged myself to design more wall hangings this year – I love a small project in between quilts, and have a constant rotation of mini quilts through my living room depending on my mood and the season. What resulted was the Tanzanite mini quilt – a bold and fun pattern that showcases your favorite fabrics and comes together surprisingly quickly!
This project also has a special meaning to me – my husband proposed to me while on a trip to Europe! He bought a beautiful blue tanzanite ring in Lithuania and asked me to be his wife in front of the Vilnius cathedral – of course, in my shock all I could squeak out at first was “Is is real?!”…
Not my smoothest moment, and we still laugh about that to this day.
Needless to say, I recovered my wits and happily said yes to the man I love to the ends of the world. I ultimately picked out a diamond engagement ring before we left Lithuania, but I now wear a tanzanite band in my wedding to remind me of that day and the week following we spend walking around Greece, soaking in the Mediterranean sun deliriously happy and newly engaged.
We didn’t tell anyone until we returned to the states- that secret was also hard to keep!
I hope you love this little project as much as I do.
Fabric: Mediterraneo by Katarina Rocella for Art Gallery Fabrics
Pieced and quilted by: Rebecca Pedela